Skip to main content

Leather Care

Leather care

Real leather, cared for simply.

Every pair is calfskin on top and buffalo leather underneath, with nothing synthetic in between. A little care keeps it supple for years, and the leather rewards wear with a patina no factory finish can copy. Everything on this page is written to be shared with your customers as-is.

Everyday care

Three habits do most of the work.

01

Brush after wearing

A soft horsehair brush lifts dust before it settles into the grain. Thirty seconds is enough.

02

Let them rest

Leather breathes out the day's moisture overnight. Alternating between two pairs, or giving a pair a day off now and then, doubles its life. A cedar shoe tree helps it keep its shape.

03

Condition occasionally

Every few months, or when the leather looks dry, a thin layer of a neutral leather cream. Test it on a hidden spot first, let it soak in, then buff with a soft cloth.

By leather

Each finish asks for something slightly different.

Smooth calfskin

Wipe with a barely damp cloth, let dry, then condition with a neutral cream. A wax polish adds shine and a little water resistance if your customer wants it.

Crazy (pull-up) leathers

Rich in oils and waxes, so scuffs turn lighter where the leather is pressed. Rub them with a fingertip or a brush and most of the colour returns. A wax-based conditioner, used sparingly, deepens the tone over time. That change is the point of this leather.

Nubuck and suede

No creams, oils or polish: they flatten the nap and stain. Use a suede brush and a suede eraser for marks, and a protector spray made for nubuck and suede before first wear. If they get wet, let them dry fully, then brush to lift the nap.

Antique finishes

The two-tone depth is hand-burnished in the atelier. Care as for smooth calfskin, with a neutral cream rather than a coloured one, so the shading stays as it is and deepens naturally with wear.

The sole

Buffalo leather, built to be walked on.

The sole is thick buffalo leather with a hot-pressed traction pattern. It moulds to the foot and wears slowly; it is not meant to be polished or treated. Keep it out of standing water. If a customer wants extra protection for city pavements, any local cobbler can add a thin rubber protector.

The copper rivet at the ball of the foot darkens with time. That is normal copper patina and needs no care.

RainFine to walk in; dry properly after
Soaked throughStuff with paper, dry at room temperature
Radiators, hair dryers, sunNever: heat cracks leather
Washing machineNever
StorageCool, dry, in a cloth bag or the box
The first week

Snug at first, then yours.

A new pair should feel snug, never painful. Leather gives where the foot needs it: firmer leathers ease by about 2 mm in the first week, softer ones by around 5 mm. Wearing them at home for a few hours a day is the easiest way through it.

Every pair is cut from a natural hide, so grain, tone and stitch spacing vary slightly from pair to pair. Creases form where the foot bends, and the colour deepens with wear. None of that is a defect; it is what real leather does.

For your customers

Share this page freely.

Copy it into your own care guide, product pages or packaging insert, in your own words or ours. A question we have not answered? Write to us.